Games climbers play

Det har vore mange forsøk på fange klatringa sitt vesen og karakter med ord, men dei fleste vert ganske kleine. Om klatring på ulike arenaer, ulike former for klatring og tilhøyrande verdiar, er det skrive ein del forstandig. Så pass mykje at vi no har eit rimeleg godt tak på 3 sider ved klatring: arena, stil og etikk. Den vi kan takke mest for denne avklaringa, er Lito Tejada Flores med sin artikkel ‘Games climbers play’ i Ascent ‘67. Den er no på trykk i R&I.

https://rockandice.com/features/games-climbers-play-ascent/

Diskusjon om stil. Frå boka ‘Games climbers play’, K Wilson ‘78, teikning S Anderson

Her er ein liten teaser:

Within our new framework we can now clear up certain misconceptions about climbing ethics. Ethical climbing merely means respecting the set of rules of the climbing-game that one is playing. Conversely, unethical climbing occurs when a climber attempts to use a set of rules appropriate to a game higher up on the scale than the one he is actually playing (i.e., a less restrictive set of rules). Applying this idea to the bolt controversy that has animated ethical discussions among climbers for the last several years, we can see that there is nothing unethical about bolts per se; it is merely that their use is prohibited by the rules of certain climbing- games and not by others. In certain games the question becomes meaningless for, as Bonatti points out, on a major mixed face no amount of bolts can guarantee success, whereas an excessive number will ensure defeat through lack of time.

Dette innlegget vart lagt inn i Ymse. Bokmerk fastlenkja.

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